Il dolce far niente.
Loosely translated as “the sweetness of doing nothing”, I first heard that wonderful Italian phrase when I was watching a Samantha Brown episode on southern Italy. As I watched her stroll around the beautiful towns of Sorrento and Positano, I knew immediately those were places I wanted to go to.
Since seeing that show, we’ve been to Sorrento twice and we want to go back again. If you’re looking for excitement, crazy night life and non-stop action – then you should stay far, far away from Sorrento. If you’re looking for postcard-perfect scenery, leisurely strolls, relaxing in a cafe, friendly people, great food and the best limoncelloyou ever had – then you should book your tickets right away.
Perched on a cliff overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento is truly the perfect base for exploring the area. To the north, you have easy day trips to Pompeii and Naples. To the south, you have easy day trips to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. Heading out over the water, you can hop on a ferry and easily access the beautiful island of Capri. During the course of our two trips, we did all of those things and more.
But Sorrento is much more than a just a jumping-off point for getting to other places. It is a lovely, laid back little town that (in my opinion) is best visited in the early fall months. The weather is still warm, the lemon and orange trees are ripe with fruit, and there are much fewer tourists packing the cobblestone streets. Although you won’t find any world famous sites like the Pantheon or Coliseum in Sorrento, there are definitely things that are worth your while to see and do!
What to see and do in Sorrento
Villa Communale
The views of the Bay from Villa Communale are spectacular. It’s a little park/garden area with benches scattered about so you can sit, relax, enjoy the view and people watch.
Basilica di Sant’Antonino
Built in the 11th century, this is a small but pretty church dedicated to Sorrento’s patron saint, Saint Anthony the Abbot. Located in Piazza Sant’Antonino, it’s rather plain looking on the outside, but very pretty inside.
In the lower level crypt is the tomb of Sant’Antonino along with hundreds of silver votive offerings that are in the shape of whatever the person was asking for help with (legs, heart, hands, etc.). A very worthwhile visit.
Strolling along the streets
You don’t need that much time to cover the centro storico of Sorrento, because it’s just not that big. But it’s fun to slowly stroll along the streets – from the main drags of Corso Italia and Via San Cesareo to the tiny side streets where you will find hidden shops, restaurants and churches.
Don’t forget to pick one of the cafes located on Piazza Tasso (which becomes pedestrian-only in the evenings), grab a bit to eat or just sip a cappuccino, and just watch the world go by. Remember…Sorrento is all about the sweetness of doing nothing!
What to buy in Sorrento
Handmade sandals
Ladies, don’t miss out on your chance to get your very own custom-made pair of sandals! There are several shops around town where you can browse the hundreds of styles and colors, then choose the ones that are right for you – you even pick the heel height that you want. The owner will measure your feet, and in a couple of hours, you can come back and get your very own, (maybe) one-of-a-kind pair of Italian sandals.
I got mine at La Conchiglia, which is located at Via Fuoro 29. His prices are reasonable and his craftsmanship is top-notch!
Inlaid wood
You will find many beautiful items at A. Gargiulo & Jannuzzi, which is located right off Piazza Tasso. In business since 1863, this huge shop sells things like linens, jewelry and ceramics. But one of their main specialties is inlaid wood. You will find gorgeous, hand-made furniture, music boxes, jewelry boxes, etc.
But one of the really cool things is that you can watch the master craftsmen at work to see just how involved the whole process is and how they get from the plain pieces of wood to the detailed finished product. Definitely worth your time and you can walk away with a beautiful keepsake (or have it shipped home to you).
Limoncello
It would be madness to leave Sorrento without buying limoncello to bring home with you (and don’t forget to drink it liberally while you’re there). You will find bottles of all sizes in many of the stores, but my favorite is Limonoro, located on Via San Cesareo. At this bright and welcoming shop, they not only sell many different flavors and types of limoncello in beautiful bottles – but they also make it right on site.
The owners are friendly and they are generous with samples of their delicious product. Trust me…you won’t leave without a bottle or two (or more).
Where to eat in Sorrento
There are so many restaurants packed into Sorrento and on its outskirts…and many of them are really outstanding. A few of our favorites are:
L’Antica Trattoria
Open since 1930, this small restaurant offers both indoor and outdoor seating. I highly recommend sitting in the upstairs outdoor area – covered by a pergola of grape vines, you’ll feel like you’re sitting in the middle of a peaceful garden. Service is friendly and the fresh-made pasta will leave you wishing for more!
Bar Ercolano
Neither the food nor the service is remarkable at this place. So why am I saying it’s one of our favorites?? Because its prime location right on Piazza Tasso makes it a wonderful place to go and have a drink or some gelato (or both) and people watch. On our second trip to Sorrento, we went here every night after dinner (except one) just to chill out and enjoy our surroundings before heading back to the hotel for the night.
Ristorante San Antonino
Located at Santa Maria delle Grazie 6, be prepared to climb a number of steps to get to the restaurant. Upstairs you will find indoor seating as well as outdoor seating among lemon and orange trees. Both the food and the service are simply outstanding.
Trattoria Da Gigino
Open since 1965, this trattoria is not to be missed. The food, the atmosphere and the service are all top notch. The gnocchi verdi con gamberi (green gnocchi with shrimp) will knock your socks off. It’s located in the city center on Via degli Archi.
Where to stay in Sorrento
Il Nido Hotel
Our first trip to Sorrento, we stayed at Il Nido. The hotel, whose name translates as “the nest”, is up in the hills of Sorrento with a breathtaking view of the Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius (on clear days).
The hotel is a no-frills, low cost, family-owned establishment that was a really great place to stay. The staff was unfailingly friendly, and the rooms were spotless – although beds were not the most comfortable and the walls a bit thin (bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper). The food served at both the complimentary breakfast buffet and off the menu for dinner was outstanding. Sitting outside on the balcony sipping fresh-squeezed orange juice or eating delicious homemade pasta while looking out over the bay just couldn’t be beat. If you stay here, pay the extra bit of money for a room with a view of the bay and Mt. Vesuvius…it’s totally worth it.
Due to its location in the hills, you cannot walk into town. However, the hotel offers a free shuttle (about a 10 minute ride to town) that runs like clockwork. On our first day, we made the mistake of assuming that the bus would pick us up at the same place it dropped us off…wrong! After waiting and waiting, we called the hotel and they explained that it picks up in a different location, but they immediately sent the shuttle down to where we were waiting and brought us back to the hotel.
While we were standing like idiots in the wrong place, we happened to be right across the street from another hotel, the Antiche Mura. Since we had so much time to stare at it, we decided that when we returned to Sorrento, we wanted to stay there.
And so that’s precisely what we did.
Hotel Antiche Mura
We were so enchanted with Sorrento that we went back the very next year in November. This time, we combined our trip with several days in Rome, as well. While we really liked the whole experience at Il Nido, we wanted to stay in a hotel that was right in town for our second visit. The Antiche Mura is perfectly located about a three minute walk from Piazza Tasso and the main shopping streets of Corso Italia and Via San Cesareo.
The hotel is beautiful and the staff was always ready with a smile and pleasant greeting. We had Comfort Rooms, which were good-sized and had plenty of closet and drawer space. The bathrooms were beautifully tiled and spacious.
Our rooms also had balconies that overlooked the old mill ruins, and we enjoyed sitting outside in the unseasonably warm weather and pretty views.
The breakfast that was included was simply outstanding. Eggs, toast, meats, cheeses, fruit and many different (and delicious) pastries. I still dream of the fresh juice that was a blend of lemon, orange and carrot juice, and have tried (but failed miserably) to replicate it at home. The ladies that took care of us every day were extremely friendly and helpful and will make cappuccino for you upon request. The room itself was lovely.
If we get back to Sorrento for a third time, we would definitely stay here again.
To me, Sorrento is magical. While it is absolutely the perfect place to hang your hat while you explore Italy to the north and south, it’s also a great place to enjoy on its own merit. I did indeed take the time to enjoy il dolce far niente on my visits…and lots of limoncello was involved!
How about you? Have you been to Sorrento? Did you enjoy it? In my next post, I’ll be covering the other places we visited while based in Sorrento: Positano, Amalfi, Ravello and Capri.
To me, Sorrento is magical. While it is absolutely the perfect place to hang your hat while you explore Italy to the north and south, it’s also a great place to enjoy on its own merit. I did indeed take the time to enjoy il dolce far niente on my visits…and lots of limoncello was involved!
How about you? Have you been to Sorrento? Did you enjoy it? In my next post, I’ll be covering the other places we visited while based in Sorrento: Positano, Amalfi, Ravello and Capri.
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